Delays, Delays, Delayed Ripening.

WoNow that summer is easing into the cool, clear days of fall, we’re apt to forget some of the headlines we’ve seen this past summer about our record breaking summer temperatures, to wit (and these are just a few of many):

• “2016 climate trends continue to break records,” by Patrick Lynch (NASA’s Goddard Space Flight Center, 19 July 2016)
• “Hottest ever June marks 14th month of record-breaking temperatures,” by Michael Slezak  (The Guardian, 19 July 2016).
• “Get used to these extreme summer heat waves,” by Lydia O’Connor (The Huffington Post, 24 July 2016).

What scientists are noting, however, is that nighttime temperatures are similarly elevated.  What does this mean for a grape farmer in Virginia?

Typical uneven ripening. Photograph courtesy of Dr. Tony Wolf.

Tony Wolf, the Viticulture Extension Specialist at the Virginia Cooperative Extension publishes a newsletter, Viticulture Notes.  Something he wrote in the last issue (September 2016) caught our attention, especially in light of these summer temperatures:

In hindsight, the 2016 turned from very wet early in the season to another record-breaking year for heat. We’ve not yet begun regular monitoring of primary chemistry on our research vineyard varieties, as harvest is not typically before 20 September for the Petit Manseng and mid-October for the Cab Sauvignon; however, we noticed in late-August that the Cabernet was unusually delayed in completing visual color changes associated with véraison. Even today (7 September) some clusters still had many green berries. The photo shown here reflects a minority of the clusters, as most have completely changed to blue-black color, but the change has been slower this year. The crop levels are not greater than in previous years – although there is a lot of fruit illustrated in Figure 1 — even our lightest cropped vines bore clusters that had delayed color transition in late-August. The canopy condition is excellent, and the vines have had adequate moisture as evidenced by persistent shoot growth, so the delayed ripening has been difficult to explain. We had a slightly delayed bloom in the Cabernet which might explain part of the delay of progress on véraison. I am leaning more towards the probability that the delay in berry coloration in the Cabernet reflects the unusually warm/hot conditions of the 2016 season. The high temperatures might have affected both photosynthesis rates, and possibly more dramatically affected whole plant respiration rates. Briefly, photosynthesis rates peak at around 86°F and then decline, precipitously so at temperatures above the mid-nineties, with variation in optimal rates due to variety, water and nutrient status of the plant, and other factors. It’s no surprise that 2016 has been a hot year, and we’re seeing a persistence of the heat well into September. With many days hitting max temperatures above 90°F for us this, year, it could well be that daytime highs were reducing photosynthesis and delaying grape development, including véraison. This might be a more prevalent issue in “warmer” regions of the state where growers occasionally comment on “stalled ripening” – often in Merlot, but we see it in a number of varieties; the juice hits about 18 – 20°Brix and then sugar accumulation flat-lines and pH increases.

He goes on to observe that respiration (“the flip side of photosynthesis”) is also affected by temperature, though respiration rates continue to increase with increasing temperature beyond what is optimal for photosynthesis.  He notes the increase in nightly low temperatures they’ve observed:

Again, the three-year trend was for warmer nights each year, with 2016 being the warmest of the three.  Compared to the summed average daily heat unit increases (17%), the summed low temperature heat unit increase was 33% over the period of interest.  Again, we can’t say for certain whether this is impacting the rate of grape ripening, but it’s a testable hypothesis.

Our takeaway: here in Southern Virginia we’ve experienced the “stalled ripening” which affects “warmer” regions; not so much in the white fruit, it has been more a frustration with the red fruit.  This year (just a week ago) most of our Cabernet Franc looks very much like the fruit in the photograph.  The Cabernet Sauvignon had a little, none in the Petit Verdot.

The fact of species shifting to higher elevations has been studied and well documented for years — birds, for example, shifting their range, trees “moving” to higher elevations where the temperatures suit them better.  Our grapevines know no such luxury.  The fact is, our hotter climate is making it difficult for us (as an industry) to grow quality fruit at lower elevations.  If the fruit won’t ripen, what’s the point?

Survival of the industry will mean planting grapevines that can thrive in these conditions.  And what are they? Jacqueline Coleman, writer of the blog History & Wine offered a short list of fruit that does well in hot regions: Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah.  The flip side: how might they fare in freezing temperatures?  We know Cabernet Sauvignon can manage, but we have no experience with the other two.  For white varieties, we’d probably look to Southern Italy and Greece.

As Dr. Wolf notes, “Maybe — hopefully — 2017 will be cooler, but the outlook is not encouraging.  A potential topic for more fully evaluating varietal responses to our environment!”

Harvest 2015.

The sun, with all those planets revolving around it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else in the universe to do.

— Galileo Galilei

Ah, harvest.  Ordinarily a cause of great anxiety, because the quality of the fruit (it goes without saying) is so, so important for the finished wine.  We had a hiccup this year when our tractor was out of commission and we were unable to apply fungicide sprays in mid-June, which resulted in a bout of downy mildew that partially defoliated the canopy.  It wasn’t pretty.

Not the end of the world, but because of having a LOT of wine in inventory, this year we decided to sell our fruit rather than make more wine.  The white grapes quickly found a home with the venerable Gabriele Rausse Winery near Charlottesville. The tall, soft-spoken, gentle Tim Rausse (Gabriel’s son) came for visit and took to the dogs immediately.  A good man.

We’re looking forward to seeing what he does with the Pinot Gris, Viognier and Vermentino.  The Pinot Gris was picked two weeks ago, and the Viognier and Vermentino this past weekend.  He was especially pleased with the Viognier, which came it at 23 Brix.  We saw him on Friday and he mentioned that turkeys were demolishing the Vermentino, which was to be picked the next day.  Fortunately the weather cooperated.  This year fall has been ideal, with long stretches of warm, dry weather.

The Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is going to Michael Shaps Wineworks, and those grapes are being picked today. Bittersweet not having our own vintage, and a bit anticlimactic, but we’re glad the growing season is coming to a close.  And with that, we have our harvest celebration on October 3!  Please join us.

Downy Mildew is a Downer.

Downy Mildew

After a blissful few days in Cape Cod, reality came crashing back last week when we returned to the vineyard to discover that we’ve developed a mild case of downy mildew.  With downy mildew, the pathogen colonizes the underside of the leaves, causing them to wither and collapse — just when we need the leaves to ripen the fruit.

In years past we’ve been able to avoid this scourge. This year, with the relentless, almost daily rain, and an unfortunate accident made it unavoidable. You’ll recall that on June 20 we had a birthday party at Annefield and a devastating storm moved in, taking with it a number of large trees and our power supply. What we did not realize at the time, however, was that the wind took hold of the door of the tractor, flung it open and shattered the glass and bent the frame.

We only learned of this the next Monday, called our equipment service, Spaulding Equipment, which took it away and ordered a new door, which of course takes time. In the meantime, the sent us a loaner, which was all well and good, but halfway through spraying the damn thing caught fire. That isn’t going to work, and with no other tractor to be had, we had to wait.

So two weeks went by without a proper fungicide spray, and the downy mildew took hold. Finally this week with equipment again the way it should be, we’re back on a rigorous spray schedule to keep this beast at bay. Fortunately it can be controlled, but now that its in the vineyard, we must be extra-careful to keep it contained. The fruit isn’t affected now, just the leaves, but we must be careful to make sure it doesn’t infect the fruit. Not the end of the world, and véraison is just around the corner — while walking the vineyard this past weekend we spotted one cluster in the Cabernet Sauvignon that is nearly completely purple. Where has the time gone?  Clearly, time waits for no one.

The Growing Season Thus Far.

We started our weekly spray regimen last week.  It isn’t really a “dirty secret,” but fungicides are a fact of life for eastern United States winegrowers.   Constant, relentless moisture and legendary humidity make for a perfect environment for the cultivation of not only grapes and many other delicious things, but for fungal bodies, too.  California’s arid climate is a plus in that regard (though lately with the water crisis, not so much), and the near absence of humidity allows growers there to grow organically and even biodynamically with ease; here, its a struggle, and growing biodynamically is impossible because only chemical means can control the dreaded Guignardia bidwellii — the source of the dreaded Black Rot.

OUr run-of-the-mill diseases include downy mildew and powdery mildew; there so many others, some affect the leaves, others the fruit (anthracnose) or the canes (phomopsis), still others the woody parts (like crown gall, which, unlike the others is caused by a bacterium and is not a fungus).

Even organic growers use certain fungicides, mainly sulfur and copper; there are other things are approved for organic production, like neem oil.  These have the added advantage of being relatively inexpensive; some of our fungicides cost over $1,000 per quart or pound.  Mercifully these are applied ounces per acre, but still, it adds up.

Some are so toxic that to use them one must have a commercial applicator’s license.  Our own rule is if a substance is that toxic, we won’t use and will find an alternative, and there always seems to be one.

Early in the season before our subtropical climate manifests itself, the days and nights are truly glorious.  The dogwoods are in flower, tulips are fading (their prime was a couple of weeks ago), the azaleas are out in full force, foliage on trees looks fresh (because it is fresh) and the grapes really show their promise.  Now you can see how fruitful the vines are going to be this season, barring disaster — a late-season frost or a hailstorm being the possible culprits.  We aren’t out of the woods on possible frost events until about May 15, so until then, fingers crossed!

How do things look so far?  The Viognier is stellar — its never looked so fruitful.  So too the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.  The Pinot Gris is looking great, as is the Vidal Blanc.  Our poor Vermentino, though, appears to have suffered this winter.  There are buds, but they are not as plentiful as any of the other varieties.  Is cold-hardiness an issue?  Coming from Italy, a couple of Polar Vortexes might be too much for it.  But then many in a row succumbed simultaneously, which suggests that those in a bundle were of similar quality which suggests there was an issue with whoever did the grafting.  Was it over-cropped last season?  For such a young planting (2011), it did produce a fair amount of fruit in 2014.  Many vines did not make it through the winter, and we’ve placed an order for replacements, but they won’t be here until 2017.  This business definitely calls for patience.

Save the Date for our Spring Bacchanalia!

Bacchanal, by Charles-Joseph Natoire (1749), in the collection of the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, Texas, USA.

In the depths of winter our thoughts turn invariably to spring.  And there is so much to do in the vineyards to get ready for the growing season — trellis repair, pruning, spreading lime, all going on simultaneously.  With so much promise and so much to do before the buds begin to swell, with budbreak the work truly begins in earnest.  For some reason we’re feeling good about this year — hopeful.

Winter is a great time to plan — so we are beginning to conceive our annual Spring Bacchanalia, an exclusive and decadent wine-pairing dinner at Annefield.  Family obligations prevent us from doing it earlier in the month, so this year it will take place on Saturday, May 30, at 6 pm.

Seating is extremely limited, so needless to say, reservations are essential.  But — we aren’t ready to take them yet, so please drop us a line at info@annefieldvineyards.com if you are interested. Just the name and the prospective number in your party is all that we need. We are starting a list, and those on it will receive advance notice when we open reservations.  Jameson and Read wine club members enjoy a special price, just like last year.  Wine Club members: $120/person, and Non-members: $195/person.  We will announce the details when it becomes available.

The House at Berry Hill, South Boston, Virginia.

If you are traveling from outside of the area and need accommodations for the weekend, we suggest booking a room at The Berry Hill Resort in South Boston.  Here’s a suggestion — make a pampered, culinary weekend of it — arrive on Friday, book a massage at the Blackberry Spa at the resort, then have a leisurely dinner at your choice of two very special places.  Choose between Bistro 1888 in downtown South Boston, and Molasses Grill in Halifax.  Last year Chef Margaret Moorefield, co-owner of Bistro 1888 , was named one of the top chefs in the country. The accolades come from Best Chefs America, an annual publication showcasing the best chefs in the nation. Moorefield says out of all her awards, this one tops them all, because she was nominated by other culinary professionals. “That means the most to me, because other chefs, they know what it takes.”

Both restaurants are a touch over five miles from Berry Hill –– a very easy and pleasant ride.  Or if you choose to stay in, dine at Berry Hill’s Mansion Dining Room, which has made great strides under new management.  The next morning after a little sightseeing or relaxing by Berry Hill’s indoor pool, join us on Saturday evening for drinks and a memorable dinner.  Other accommodation options are here.

We’ll post another announcement when we are closer to the date.  Until then, Happy Spring!

Renewing Our Gravel Roads.

Visit any well-kept farm and the tranquility transports you — the quiet, the birds, the pristine air, the views of forests and fields.  But give some thought to the the maintenance and the infrastructure; here, like everywhere, its a battle against the elements: wind and rain take their toll, as does erosion and the passage of time.  There are other old roads that have fallen into disuse, and some have grassed over.  You can “feel” them as you traverse some of the fields.  But step from the car and underfoot is that satisfying crunch of gravel.  Did you ever give any thought to where that came from?

A little while ago we resurfaced some of the interior roads at Annefield, covering a little more than half a mile.  In our part of the world, the most commonly used is a 3/4 inch chipped blue stone known in the trade as “No. 57.”  It has a cool grey color, and came from BMC Rock, Inc., a quarry just up the road outside of Charlotte Court House.  Each load contains several tons, but the stone doesn’t go very far, so back they went for more.  A pair of trucks working in tandem brought us 144 tons, which took the better part of a morning.  Mercifully they are equipped to spread it for us, and did so quickly and efficiently.

The older stone beneath it has a pink stone mixed in, which brings to mind Martha Stewart’s summer house, Skylands on the coast of Maine.  The house was built in 1925 for Edsel Ford by Duncan Chandler, and the 61-acre property was landscaped by Jens Jensen.  The property was sold by the Fords to another family in 1970, and Martha Stewart purchased it in 1997.

The house is constructed of pink granite, and the road to the house is covered with a pink granite gravel.  Preparing that house for a bitter New England winter includes taking in anything made of terra cotta, sculptures that are difficult to move get protective housing, windows are covered, some shrubs are wrapped in burlap, and the infamous pink granite gravel is scooped up, washed and stored, to be spread again in the spring.  It sounds so extravagant, but this operation is something the builder started and Martha merely continues the tradition.  There’s asphalt underneath, so this operation isn’t as difficult as it sounds, though unfortunately, it does reek of Gilded Age excess.  See great pictorials of the place here and here.

Ms Stewart has staff to do the scooping, but the mind’s eye longs for a photograph of her working the tractor, or at least showing the staff how its done.

In our case, traffic causes the gravel to sink into the earth, which calls for its renewal every few years.  It’s an earth friendly surface, given that it allows water to percolate through, and there’s nothing like the feel and sound of of it.